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我不打算很快就停止穿詹娜·里昂那样的衣服。

在纽约消防局2012年春季的J.Crew演示会上,品牌第一

Mike Coppola

2011年,我在纽约一家报纸上报道时尚,这家报威廉希尔备用网址纸让我在2012年春季系列中看到了一些更令人兴奋的节目,并将其分为两页。The usual suspects jumped out—Wang,Herrera,a newly invigorated Blass—but the final product featured nothing but 950 words about J.Crew,which had just participated in its first-ever 威廉希尔备用网址Fashion Week.

模特们穿着橘子色裤子和泡泡糖粉色衬衫,yellow sequined shells with violet pencil skirts,带牛仔短裤和大衣的百分百的领带领上衣。天气凉爽,human,friendly,有点疯狂的四个字,我不会把它等同于我认为的时装周的模仿。威廉希尔备用网址模特们都穿着橘红色的唇膏,一个新的J.Crew签名,有的戴着厚而别致的眼镜,an obvious nod to the woman behind what I was looking at,Jenna Lyons,whose 26-year tenure with the company escalated from vice president of women's design to executive creative director.It was announced this weekthat she'd be exiting.

NEW YORK,NY - FEBRUARY 13: Designer Jenna Lyons attends the Mara Hoffman collection during,纽约时装周:2月1威廉希尔备用网址3日在Shop Studios的演出,2017年在纽约市。(Photo by Robin Marchant/Getty Images for New York 威廉希尔备用网址Fashion Week: The Shows) Robin Marchant

里昂和首席执行官米基·德雷克斯勒一起对J.Crew的形象和库存进行了全面检查,剥去品牌的木质,preppy roll-neck sweaters and chinos,and implementing a new visual mission statement that was more about having fun than always being practical.但是,与其依靠每年两次在纽约的展示来在其商店里销售色彩鲜艳的新成衣,品牌安装了里昂作为它的脸,in effect,its muse.

It worked: The 威廉希尔备用网址fashion industry welcomed the revised mall store with open arms—Lyons appeared on magazine covers,in gossip columns,在Met Gala的地毯上,购物者想her,或者至少看起来像她。I know I did.

During J.Crew's heyday,我不认为店里的东西特别诱人。在纸上,I gravitated toward the brooding black of Theyskens' Theory and,later,Saint Laurent,但每次我看到里昂穿着什么东西——任何东西——我都会立即产生本能反应,an urge to run out and buy it because of the way she wore it,not necessarily for the piece itself.

LOS ANGELES,CA-11月14日:总裁兼创意总监,J.Crew,Jenna Lyons poses backstage during Glamour Women Of The Year 2016 LIVE Summit at NeueHouse Hollywood on November 14,2016 in Los Angeles,California.(Photo by Emma McIntyre/Getty Images) Emma McIntyre

为了我,是里昂为“个人风格”设立了一个门槛,而不是一群在节目外打扮的人,许多人穿得像疯子一样捕捉相机的镜头。里昂的表情是故意的,对,but they didn't feel it.

一位大师级的造型师,她搭配了“花式”(亮片,satin,薄纱,and ball skirts) with utility (chambray,带条纹的三通oversize parkas,卡其斯camo,以及开司米圆领,culminating in a quirky,未完成的,为什么我没有想到这种效果。裤子有着同样的女性男性平衡感,thanks to blouses unbuttoned to the sternum,胸罩留在家里了。

NEW YORK,纽约-10月28日:J.Crew creative director Jenna Lyons attends the Elton John AIDS Foundation's 13th Annual An Enduring Vision Benefit at Cipriani Wall Street powered by CIROC Vodka on October 28,2014 in New York City.(照片由杰米·麦卡锡/Wireimage拍摄) Jamie McCarthy

YouTube教程是为了教别人模仿里昂的方式而创建的。袖口袖口或折边;women everywhere started seeing the cool parallel that comes with wearing glittery costume jewelry with an athletic gray sweatshirt.

I started wearing my old army-green parka out on Saturday night.I showed up in black pants and a sequin top to a good friend's wedding.我发现选择两件外套,一件合身,一件牛仔,one loose and leopard—made me look like I knew what I was doing in the style department.

NEW YORK,纽约-9月13日:9月13日,珍娜·里昂在牛奶工作室参加了2016年春季的乔纳森·辛卡伊时装秀。威廉希尔备用网址2015 in New York City.(图片来源:Mireya Acierto/Getty Images) 白蕊菊

I wasn't alone.The Jenna Lyons effect was far-reaching,with women furiously trying to capture her haphazard-but-not-really approach to getting dressed,我当时工作的那个网站,在任何一个特定的月份里,经常用“服装来复制”与她的长相有关的自负。

不可避免地出现了一个转折点:2013年德雷克斯勒publicly agreedwith some disgruntled loyalists that the brand's collections had "strayed too far from the classics" and that they were—in all their mixed-print glory—possibly too overstyled,后来零售商被拖了进来its delusional prices,它疏远高端“收藏”据报道质量较低,及其declining salesin a marketplace that includes Zara and H&M.

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J.机组人员2016年秋季在纽约消防局的演讲

Slaven Vlasic

仍然,I think Lyons' impact on the way we'll continue to approach style is evident,即使我们没有经常去我们当地的J.Crew。It's visible in the kooky glam-granny ethos that pervades current high-威廉希尔备用网址fashion collections,including亚历山德罗·米歇尔的“新”古奇in the enduring photosof Michelle,莎莎还有马里·奥巴马,她觉得自己没有约会,in the women I see right here in the魅力office.

Drexler toldBusiness of 威廉希尔备用网址Fashion第一次报道这个消息—that the decision to part ways with Lyons was mutual,and she'll be staying on as an adviser until her contract ends in December.After that,看看她做了什么会很有趣的。Her own line seems like an obvious next move,but even if she decides to do nothing related to 威廉希尔备用网址fashion,我很高兴我有六年的服装可以回顾,invariably,copy.

LOS ANGELES,CA - NOVEMBER 14: Creative Director and President for J.Crew Jenna Lyons attends Glamour Women Of The Year 2016 at NeueHouse Hollywood on November 14,2016 in Los Angeles,California.(照片由Stefanie Keenan/Getty Images拍摄,以增加魅力) 斯蒂芬妮-基南
NEW YORK,纽约-4月28日:珍娜·里昂出现在4月28日,2015 in New York City.(照片由SBN/Star Max/GC图像提供) SBN/Star Max
NEW YORK,纽约——5月4日:詹娜·里昂出席5月4日在大都会艺术博物馆举办的“中国:透过镜子”服装协会义演。2015 in New York City.(照片由Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images拍摄) 迪米特里奥斯·卡姆布里
NEW YORK,NY - SEPTEMBER 11: Jenna Lyons attends the J.Crew presentation during Spring 2013 Mercedes-Benz 威廉希尔备用网址Fashion Week at The Studio Lincoln Center on September 11,2012 in New York City.(Photo by Michael N.Todaro/WireImage) Michael N.Todaro
NEW YORK,NY - DECEMBER 04: Jenna Lyons attends HBO's In Vogue: The Editor's Eye screening at Metropolitan Museum of Art on December 4,2012 in New York City.(西奥·沃戈/盖蒂为HBO拍摄的照片) 西奥沃戈
NEW YORK,纽约——11月2日:珍娜·里昂出席了11月2日在春季工作室举行的第12届CFDA/时尚基金颁奖典礼。威廉希尔备用网址2015 in New York City.(吉姆·斯佩尔曼/Wireimage合影) 吉姆·斯佩尔曼