After Years of Cystic Acne,我可以向你保证皮肤护理不是骗局

近几年来,精心呵护皮肤的行为已经发展成一种近乎邪教般的狂热,然而,一些人认为这只是一个“骗局”。 魅力 佩里·萨莫汀解释了为什么这种突然的反应不仅仅是愚蠢的,但令人难以置信的无知。

互联网的williamhill388美丽和荒谬之处在于它能够以一种方式激怒人们,使一天的戏剧可以减少到一个没有上下文的推特。I saw one last night that said "Black Mirror: Skin Care" and I knew exactly what the author was referring to.A story published on The Outline Tuesday called 皮肤护理协会, in which writer Krithika Varagur took a guns-blazing yet remarkably unresearched approach to tearing down what she calls "New Skincare" a seemingly empty pastime embraced by millennial women because it's cool and satiating,不是因为它有用。瓦拉格称之为“骗局”。

我不想反驳她在racked.com上的论点的核心。 那样做了吗 ,做得很好,但我觉得有必要将自己融入到这场对话中,不仅因为我在职业生涯的各个阶段都经历过美容,williamhill388也因为护肤,在很多方面,has changed the way I present myself to the world,这并不总是容易的。

读了几遍提纲的故事后,我承认我并不反对瓦拉格的每一点,though I think her frustration is misguided.I have certainly rolled my eyes at the It Girl mentality found in certain circles of skin care enthusiasts,当穿着清凉衣服的女孩经常推荐产品时,我感到很失望,冷酷的头发,and cool jobs do nothing for me.I've also gotten angry at natural-skin-care brands that make irresponsible claims backed up by nothing but earnest testimony—such as the promise that garden-variety oils and esters can cure cystic acne.他们不能。一些油可能有助于防止长期爆发,但是囊性痤疮是我自己对皮肤护理的痴迷诞生的野兽。

在经历了典型的青少年皮肤青春痘和油性T区后——我发现自己在15岁的时候面临着一个快速,violent outbreak of cystic acne that included quarter-sized nodules under the skin,红色inflamed lesions on both cheeks that hurt to the touch.很多之后,many rounds of 四环素类药物 ,I was placed on isotretinoin—a.k.a.大约一年后。Two pills daily for six months.I'll spare you the details of the peeling skin,干巴巴的嘴唇和眼睛,and what it was like being a teenager having to sign paperwork pledging she won't get pregnant because of the severe birth defects the drug can cause—all while her male doctor looks on.这是以前 iPledge .

I was grateful to be on Accutane—painful acne was a misery—but at that age,外表决定了很多,and I wasn't comfortable with mine.

我心烦意乱。I was grateful to be on Accutane—painful acne was a misery—but at that age,外表决定了很多,and I wasn't comfortable with mine.我决定我最好的办法就是开始化妆。磨砂,完全覆盖的基础,掩盖什么是不能真正掩盖。但在16岁时,I had no idea how to properly buy or apply makeup.所以,受创伤的,I made a trip to the drugstore and grabbed the first bottle of Revlon ColorStay foundation I saw,not bothering to check the shade.它看起来是白色的,我是白人。这就是它的工作原理,正确的?我也很快意识到如果你像我一样化妆,你必须在晚上卸妆;我第一次体验日常洗涤。当时我选择的清洁剂是肥皂,赛塔菲尔或亚德利,因为Accutane能吸收你皮肤上所有的水分——我也依赖于像Lubriderm这样的保湿霜,通常与SPF 30混合,因为光不是你指控的朋友。Voila,cocktailing.


In six months,the worst of my cysts had subsided and I'd familiarized myself with the nightly routine of washing my face to remove my makeup,尽管我从来没有因为害怕我的痤疮复发而偏离过嗜热脂肪酸;不要紧的是,它被不敬虔的维生素A从我身上冲走了。

在大学里,我的脸看起来好多了,但不怎么好看——我仍然习惯性地用大量的化妆品来遮盖我留下的凹痕和疤痕。It was there,though,在宿舍浴室里,that I discovered a gateway rainbow of drugstore face wash,每个人都声称他们做了不同的事情;每一个我从未尝试过的都要感谢充满谨慎的青春期。金子 中性粒细胞无油粉刺清洗剂 ,天蓝色凝胶 干净透明 ,桃子 圣艾夫斯杏磨砂 .I'd try whatever my friends had in their shower caddies,当你盯着镜子,主要谈论派对和我们的恶毒RA的时候,但是我很清楚地记得那些公共的夜晚和早晨。


After college—early 2000s—my acne was mostly gone but I was faced with a new affliction—circular dry facial patches that would flare up whenever they felt like it and were resistant to derm-prescribed hydrocortisone,凡士林,把橄榄油调直。碎片太薄了,我不能戴粉底,看起来不像我有一张波尔卡点缀的脸。后来我发现了一个叫做williamhill388 马库帕利 ,a first-gen digital community of impassioned williamhill388beauty fanatics who swapped reviews,tips,and stories.It was on that site,practically still in beta,我发现有些人发誓,两片未加糖衣的阿司匹林,用温水和一点蜂蜜融化,可以帮助治愈干燥。发炎的斑块,你知道吗?这对我很有用。It was also around this time I starting gently dipping my makeup sponges into iced coffee before applying foundation,发誓咖啡因唤醒了我的皮肤。我相信我们现在称之为黑客。


In the decade-plus I've been covering women's lifestyle,我尝试过数千种产品,从囤积口红和古铜到囤积血清,moisturizers,剥皮剂,and balms.因为我看到了结果,所以它变成了一种激情。在这个空间里,I find I'm able to think analytically and critically about what actually works for me,not just what looks good or is flattering.有一些工作要做,我发现这很令人满意,尤其是现在我的皮肤和荷尔蒙已经稳定在一个地方,我可以根据我想解决的问题来试验不同的配方。

尽管瓦拉格认为“主要是买东西,and displaying them for others to see." The trick,当然,正在做科学作业,我知道这是根据我和周围女人的一些对话 魅力 办公室并不总是那么容易。

化学暴力并不是寻找那些被证明能让人感觉更好的东西。因为你在YouTube上看到了化学暴力,所以在你脸上涂上除臭剂作为底漆。

“如果我说实话,I really don't know the science behind half of the products I use and why they're 'good for me,'" our social media director Madeline said,她还补充说,她常常像提纲故事中提到的那些对他们所用的强力成分知之甚少,但无论如何都要把它们涂上厚厚的一层。通常是因为某种产品渗入了它们的饲料。她说:“目前还不清楚这些成分会如何相互作用,或者它们会如何影响我的皮肤。”

我花了很长时间来抵制这种冲动,不管我在Sephora想买什么样的奶油,或是撕开我在工作时在美容柜里看到的每一种昂贵的治疗方法。williamhill388在过去的一年左右,因为很多原因,我已经变得更加适应我在身体上和身体上放置的东西,我承诺花时间学习。我有一个稳定的皮肤科医生,which I hadn't had since my Accutane days,and I email her questions if I have them.我是谷歌。我问朋友谁是美容编辑。williamhill388I read packaging,不仅仅是看它。为了我自己的健康,我选择教育自己为什么产品能够做出承诺。

I now know exactly what acids -安波,BHA,乙醇酸的,lactic,苹果酸,柠檬酸,水杨酸DO,哪一个适合我。I know that humectants and hyaluronic acid are essential for my lifelong dry skin.我知道怎么申请 视黄醇 负责地。I know the rejuvenating power of a vitamin-C serum,because—feeling overwhelmed by the bottles on my bedside table—I asked my dermatologist to suggest one nonnegotiable product during my last visit.

瓦拉古尔提到了上面提到的一些成分,但把责任推给了他们,写作,“新护肤品的核心是化学暴力。”不。化学暴力并不是寻找那些被证明能让人感觉更好的东西。它不好奇 Biologique p50 -随附大量印刷说明或想要试用 格洛斯新化学去角质剂 .化学暴力把除臭剂涂在脸上作为底漆。 因为你在YouTube上看到的 .它在用pepto bismol浸湿你的脸。 因为一个超模认为它有效 .It's 在线点播和家庭注射。


I do not find self-worth in the "enormous quantity" of products I use,尽管瓦拉格的论点。In fact,恰恰相反。没有什么比找到一个核心的几个协同工作来产生结果更好的了。今天,我的日常工作是洗脸( Skinceuticals Gentle Cleanser ),墨粉(调色剂) Bioderma Sensibio ),晨血 阿魏酸护肤品 ),moisturizer (I switch between M61's Hydraboost Cream and Desert Essence's Revitalizing Oils ),眼霜 Red Earth ),每周两次视黄醇( A313 ,直到我姐姐去法国旅行后把它带回来,我才知道。I also have a weekly rotation of treatments to target different areas of concern ( 博士。勃兰特氧气面部闪光恢复面膜 枯燥乏味, 喝醉的大象T.L.C.Sukari婴儿面部护理 for clogged pores and improved texture,and 博士。Gross' cool blue peel-off mask 因为水合作用和乐趣是我不断回归的三个方面)。

Avoiding your gaze,hiding behind my hair,我宁愿做一个锅棍的奴隶。我喜欢看起来很好,too.

但是考虑到创新品牌的数量和突破,I'll always want to try new things,所以我可能会在我走的时候改变或消除,这可能意味着花更多的钱。例如,我最近换了我的圣杯Clarisonic,我的皮肤对它产生了抵抗力。 努斯金卢米斯帕 ,and I unequivocally noticed a difference in tone,hydration,字面上的清晰。买一个新工具不等于吃了我的感情,可以这么说,but rather an actionable thing I did to fix my enlarged pores and dull skin after a good amount of research.

在她的文章中,Varagur instructs,"Before you start a militant skincare regimen,想一想你为什么想要一个是很有启发性的。”

可能是因为我在高中时躲开了世界,and I have important things to accomplish daily that need my full confidence.Avoiding your gaze,hiding behind my hair,我宁愿做一个锅棍的奴隶,如果可能的话。我喜欢看起来很好,too.

I'm in my thirties and look younger than I am—much younger,I've been told.That could be because of my 5'2" frame,但我喜欢认为这是因为我的肤色和弹性。我不是在自夸——我生来就没有好皮肤。我用你能找到的最重的药物来治疗它,从此以后,I've tended to it—and not because anyone told me to,or because I'm chasing some bullshit ideal dictated by Instagram.

"Real,有缺陷的女人有真实的,flawed skin—it's fine," Varagur writes.是啊,we know.我认为我遇到的任何一个注重皮肤护理的女人都不会因为一个瑕疵或一次脱皮而翻脸。If anything,她能找出原因——一种新的成分,一个糟糕的饮食周,PMS.如果她不能,她会寻求帮助的。理解和采取行动的能力,对我来说,is the definition of perfect skin.

PerrieSamotin是Glamour的数字副主编。

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